Pup Information

1.    I wish it to be noted that all pups are sold with the understanding; (that if your circumstances change or you no longer wish to keep one of my pups for any reason), they are to be first offered back to me.

2.     I do not sell pups to only breed from, as it is not much of a life for an active dog/bitch that has been breed to work.

3.     I sell my pups to be used for stock work and/or active dog sports. Only very rarely do I sell a pup for a family pet if it is from quieter more relaxed lines or is a pup showing that it would fit into that lifestyle.

4.    All pups that are "not brought for breeding and work"  will be on limited registration. Pups will not be ISDS registered unless for breeding or in the case of overseas exports for registration purposes.

5.     I would prefer pups to be spay/neutered at a reasonable age, I prefer 12 months or older for a dog and only younger in a bitch if it is necessary for her well being. This lets them mature before spay/neutering. With bitches this gives them a better working life and stops any unwanted/unplanned pups being born. In a dog it keeps his mind on the job at hand and for dog sports, is a good way to go for most people.  

(A)    All pups are sold with a folder to accompany them. In it is photo's and info on their Sire and Dam. Info on feeding/worming/vaccinations. Vaccination certificate and Microchip certificate. 5 generation pedigree.

(B)    My pups are reared outside in a custom made building and the sleeping part of the floor and up the walls is insulated. Outside of this is a large pen. Pups are handled many times a day by the family when they are little and once they are around 4 weeks they are let out to explore their surrounding but always under supervision. After a couple of days of that, we go for walks around the house/close paddocks. This keeps them strong, gives them mental stimulation and allows them to explore many different areas, they play games and find things to play with on the way. At the same time they also learn to walk where we go and come when it is time to move on. I also play games with them, this is to get to know how responsive, active and also how much eye and length of focus/concentration they have. They get very used to the comings and goings of a busy farm and socialize with the other farm dogs as they get older. I have my pups fairly active and introduce them to lots of different toys and take advantage of any visitors to socialize them. My now 13 year old daughter is a great help with the pups.

(C)    Pups are ready to go to their new homes at 8 weeks old. They are wormed every 2 weeks and have had their first vaccination. All pups are vet checked before they are ready to go at 8 weeks. They are also micro chipped. All my pups need both mental and physical exercise each day.

(D)    I think the 3 most important things for a Border Collie is

1. Build a good relationship with your Border Collie; built on consistent behaviour/actions.

2. Do socialize, and training with them from a young age, mostly training.

3. Never let them get OVER WEIGHT.

(E)    All my Breeding Stock have been Dna tested for known Border Collie Diseases; CL, CEA and TNS. All breeding Dogs/bitches are eye tested when they are over 2 yrs old to check for PRA or any other eye abnormalities.     

Email contact if you would like to know more     OHUTU KENNELS